For painting you've got a number of options to consider, depending on your budget and how annoying (in terms or odors and noise) you can be.
|Enamel||Model Master, Humbrol, Tamiya, Gunze-Sangyo||Petroleum-based||durable finish||requires ventilation|
|Lacquer||Floquil||Dio-sol||very fine finish; durable||can attack styrene; requires ventilation|
|Acrylic||Model Master, Aero, Tamiya||water or alcohol||minimal or no ventilation; easy cleanup||less durable|
|Brush||cheap||good for detailing small areas, easy to switch colors & clean up||large areas may show brush strokes; may be "globby"|
|Aerosol||moderate||easy application; fine finish||may require extensive use of masking; can't mix colors|
|Airbrush||can be costly||fine finish; good for misting and weathering effects||may require extensive use of masking; lots of "fussy" prep & clean-up work|
|liquid||MicroMask; latex||cheap to moderate||easy to make irregular edges||paint may flake off when removing|
|film||frisket; parafilm||cheap to moderate||easy to make irregular edges||paint may bleed under|
|tape||Post-It; masking; transparent||cheap||easy to mask shapes; clean edges||may lift underlying paint; paint may bleed under|
|etched mask||brass; cut vinyl||expensive||saves time||can only be used for one subject; paint may bleed under|
Depending on your type of paint job - a gaming mini, one-color model or multi-color/multi-shade model - you should pick'n'choose the most-suitable methods. More on that as we delve deeper.
The Model Citizen's "Sprue U" pages are �2004 Roger Sorensen
last updated 04 December, 2007