For painting you've got a number of options to consider, depending on your budget and how annoying (in terms or odors and noise) you can be.
Type | Brand Examples | Solvent | Pro | Con |
Enamel | Model Master, Humbrol, Tamiya, Gunze-Sangyo | Petroleum-based | durable finish | requires ventilation |
Lacquer | Floquil | Dio-sol | very fine finish; durable | can attack styrene; requires ventilation |
Acrylic | Model Master, Aero, Tamiya | water or alcohol | minimal or no ventilation; easy cleanup | less durable |
Method | cost | Pro | Con |
Brush | cheap | good for detailing small areas, easy to switch colors & clean up | large areas may show brush strokes; may be "globby" |
Aerosol | moderate | easy application; fine finish | may require extensive use of masking; can't mix colors |
Airbrush | can be costly | fine finish; good for misting and weathering effects | may require extensive use of masking; lots of "fussy" prep & clean-up work |
Method | example | cost | Pro | Con |
liquid | MicroMask; latex | cheap to moderate | easy to make irregular edges | paint may flake off when removing |
film | frisket; parafilm | cheap to moderate | easy to make irregular edges | paint may bleed under |
tape | Post-It; masking; transparent | cheap | easy to mask shapes; clean edges | may lift underlying paint; paint may bleed under |
etched mask | brass; cut vinyl | expensive | saves time | can only be used for one subject; paint may bleed under |
Depending on your type of paint job - a gaming mini, one-color model or multi-color/multi-shade model - you should pick'n'choose the most-suitable methods. More on that as we delve deeper.
The Model Citizen's "Sprue U" pages are �2004 Roger Sorensen
last updated 04 December, 2007