Valiant Class; U.S.S. Defiant

Aside from being a snap-apart kit, this is a fairly good effort on ERTL's part. Still, there are some details to pay heed to if you want to build a more-accurate Defiant model.

General views:

• Look at your box cover. Compare details to those on the model.
• Here's a decent view of the keel (61k).
• And fair aft top and aft-keel views (17k each)
• Aft view (from ST:FC)
• CG Rendered image (37k) from the 2001 "Ships of the Line" calendar.

Details:

• The bussard intake (20k) needs work.
• A more head-on image (64k) shows more parts that need work.
• The deflector module (36k) should be lowered about 1/8"
• Defiant's main shuttle bay (103k)

Assembly tips

• For an amusing exercise, just try to assemble the kit without glue. After all, ERTL must have done it this way so the kids wouldn't have to deal those nasty, messy glues. Can you get the all the bulkhead inserts to stay balanced in place while you clamp the hull halves together? Imagine how this would make you feel if you were a child trying to put it together. Wouldn't your modeling self-esteem go right down the tubes? OK, enough fun.
• A round peg in a square hole? That's how the ship's top & bottom halves are designed to "snap" together. Before starting a glued assembly, bore out the pin holes so that the registration pins will actually fit into them. Amazingly, this will dramatically reduce the gaps between the two halves.
• The stern piece will also have a lot of gaps around it if you don't carve out the opening for it - especially the port-top edge - and trim the clips on the piece.
• If you want to illuminate your Defiant, you'll need clear replacement parts for the nacelle inserts and the deflector. If you're not a do-it-yourself castings maker, contact DLM: Don's Light and Magic